The Pemi Loop

Triumphant.  I was driving home Sunday evening wondering how I might describe this journey while reflecting back on such an incredible experience.  We worked hard for this achievement and then it popped into my head – Triumphant!

With perfection we all arrived at the Lincoln Woods trail head for 4pm and like a chorus of well rehearsed musicians we were headed up the trail eager to begin the journey.  However, it was not before I discovered my camera was absent its memory card, grrr.  Fear not – our most experienced compatriot, Stephen, had his as I know he likes to document his adventures as well.

Stephen had gotten there a little earlier and chatted up the rangers.  It seems people have gotten a touch lazy about their food and the valley floor of the Pemi – and those camping there – have been waking up to missing food!  Hanging your bear bag, they say, was not effective.  The ranger suggested we hike up a bit from the valley floor and so we obliged.

I’d say we hiked in roughly six miles on Friday night.  We finished hiking at 6:30pm, set up camp and settled in.  Stephen and Dan had dinner while we chatted.  I ate around 3pm while driving.  Having a meal so close to hiker midnight doesn’t allow me a good night’s sleep.  By 9pm we were hunkered down and I was out.  It was a stunning sleeping night.  The weeks temperatures leading up to this hike hovered near 100, humidity was in the 75-85% range and the dew point – the real culprit – never sank below 70%.  As forecasters predicted, Friday evening the weather turned clear, dry and it fell to 50 degrees for the overnight – damn that was cold, lol.

Several folks have asked why I was leading the Pemi Loop from the Bondcliff Trail.  The answer is simple.  The hike in to the trail junction is long (5+ miles), flat, full of historic railroad ties, and quite frankly, boring.  Plus, there is something to be said to arrive at the cars – or nearest too – when exiting the trail.  The Osseo trail, from the summit of Flume which is the last peak, is beautiful, gentle, and easy on the feet and absent the typical rough stone, tangled roots and excruciating elevations.  Rather, this trail drops quickly from the summit, levels off nicely, drops off again by a series of steps, and then meanders down via long and level switch backs to the final trail junction leaving only 1.5 miles (approximately) from the cars – much nicer way to finish.

Saturday morning came – by 5:30am we were up and cooking breakfast.  Bear bags intact, no food missing.  I like my morning time and I was able to indulge in that precious hour of sipping coffee and letting life and energy breathe into your soul.  We started to see hikers heading up to Bondcliff as well – some do start early.  By 7:30am we were packed up and on the trail – the journey continues.

I love the Bondcliff trail.  It’s a nice way to ascend the summit.  It is not particularly steep; it’s easy on the knees and truly a beautiful walk in the woods.  We passed a few campers on the lower end and were passed by one or two hikers on the way up but by 9:30am we were atop Bondcliff.  Stunning.  The weather was pristine.  We had a nice cool breeze and I’d say temps were somewhere between 55 and 65 – hard to say with a constant cool wind.  Views were 360 as far as the eye could see and that my friends, laid the foundation for the rest of the day.

We carried on… we tackled Mt. Bond, West Bond and then had lunch.  We moved on to the Guyot tent site to replenish water.  I tagged Mt. Guyot (Dan and Stephen passed) and soon found ourselves atop South Twin.  The trails were busy this fine day – we passed and were passed – by many a hiker – some were looping all in a day.  The afternoon highlight for me was recognizing a woman from a winter hike I’d done with Stephen and Dave.  She had lost her dog during her hike and the dog spent the night in the wilderness.  Happy endings prevail and the next day “Sasha” was found and reunited with her.  I was happy to see them hiking together again.

From South Twin we scrambled down to Galehead Hut.  Dan stayed back to have soup and replenish snacks while Stephen and I tagged Galehead.  Stephen needed that peak for July for his grid – congrats sir!  One more down.

By this time our energy levels were mixed.  The plan was the Garfield tent site but as we would soon learn, the site was more than full (30+ overnighters).  We hoisted our packs, gave ourselves a pep talk and dug in – we only had 2.7 miles left to the base of the summit of Mt. Garfield – but it might well have been ten, lol, we earned those 2.7 miles over ups and downs and ups and downs.  We camped less than a quarter mile below the tent site.  We were at the base of a col next to a small stream, “ruisseau”, as we say in French.  Goal achieved – the time was now 6:30pm.  We quickly set up camp and hung food bags.  By this point I was ready to scrub my body clean.  The stream was hardly big enough to dip into but I brought a small cloth – and so I set about getting comfy for the night.  Clean pants, t-shirt, socks and fleece, I was cozy.

Shortly after starting dinner hiker Erik asked if this was the Garfield tent site – he had been looping in the same direction as us.  We delivered the news, tent site full, but we welcomed him to our enclave.  He settled in.  Erik is 22, on break from college, up in New England from his home state, Florida, just banging out adventures.  Good for him.  We had a small camp fire, I had a little wine and Dan had a little whiskey and we enjoyed a brilliant evening.  By 9pm I was ready for lights out.  Dan and Stephen stayed up longer with Erik – I think by 10pm they had all turned in but I was fast asleep by then.

At 5am the next morning we were rousing awake.  I slept like a log.  It was, however, pretty clear our energy levels were mixed.  Stephen did not sleep well and Dan was slowly coming to life.  We set about our morning routine.  The group wanted an earlier start than the posted 8:30am – I was happy to oblige – but only after I had my precious hour of morning coffee – mornings are special.  By 7:40am we were packed and on the trail.  Hiker Erik departed a few minutes before us.

Our day began by summiting Mt. Garfield.  That was a tough way to start the hike and a tough way to really wake up.  We pit stopped at the tent site spring to replenish water and eventually reached the summit.  Stunning.  Once again, mild temps, slightly warmer than Saturday, a cool breeze and 360 degree views as far as the eye could say – yet again – the foundation of a brilliant day of hiking.  We started down; pit stopped at Garfield Pond and then started our way to the summit of Mt. Lafayette.  About half way there Dan indicated he had a goal of 4pm as a finish time.  I had no time table and Stephen was short some energy so it was decided to bid adieu to Dan as we knew he had a long drive back to Pennsylvania split between Sunday evening and early Monday morning.  We carried on. The approach to Mt. Lafayette from this side was new for me and just stunning.  All the while – you could see the ridge we crossed, Mt. Washington in the distance, Greenleaf Hut below us, Cannon Mountain and its sheer cliffs, the Bonds, the Twins, Mt. Garfield now behind us – truly breathtaking.  At the summit of Mt.  Lafayette we did reconnect with Dan for lunch but that was the last time our paths crossed.  I kept tabs on his progress until Little Haystack and then he fell out of view.  Stephen and I enjoyed the day and a long leisurely hike along the ridge, over Mt. Lincoln, Little Haystack, then over to Mt. Liberty. 

Between Little Haystack and Mt. Liberty I got a dog bite – thankfully it was not serious – just a scruffy fella that thought my thigh might taste good.  I wasn’t amused.  This part of the trail is narrow and has a few blind corners.  I clearly startled the dog rounding the bend but it also didn’t hesitate to lunge.  It was off leash as many dogs are.  It happened so fast I didn’t have a moment to react.  Thankfully it was very minor in the end.  I traded contact info with the owner while I dressed up the scratch.  I’m already on the mend.  I can’t say I’m a fan of canine bruise marks on my thigh though – looks much worse than it is!!

From there we carried on to the final summits of the day, Mt. Liberty, then Mt. Flume.  Score, Stephen got two more July summits for his grid.  Flume was special – we had a perfect view of the circular ridges we had just traversed over two days and one early evening of hiking.  Triumphant!

Every journey must come to an end.  I hated starting the descent but there wasn’t going to be a 3rd night of camping, nor another ridge to cross or a mountain to summit.  We had to descend the Osseo trail 4.1 miles to intersect with the Lincoln Woods Trail and carry on 1.5 miles to the cars.  Stephen and I finished at 7pm on the dot while Dan emerged sometime around 5:30pm.  It was a brilliant adventure with the best mother nature could give – we certainly got rewarded for our efforts.

A massive thank you for Stephen and Dan joining this hike.  These adventures are best experienced by two or more though I know this fell into the “very strenuous” category and may not have been for everyone.  Over the course of 2.25 days we hiked 34 miles over the Bond, Twin and Franconia Ridges, 11 peaks, two 12 hour hiking days, two sweet nights of camping, one late Sunday evening skinny dip all the while racking up 9,500-10,000 feet of elevation gain – Triumphant!! 

Join me for one of the White Mountains most picturesque loop hikes – the Pemi Loop.  This trip will be incredibly rewarding but it will not be without effort.  The hike will take us over the famed Bonds, South Twin, Galehead, Garfield, Lafayette, Lincoln, Liberty and Flume.  Over the course of two days and one early evening of hiking we will tackle 10 summits – that is some serious peak bagging!  To join this trip you must have climbed some 5,000 footers, previously backpacked for at least one overnight summiting and descending with your full pack and have experience above tree line.  The overall trip is approximately 34 miles.

We will meet at Lincoln Woods in Lincoln, NH at 4pm on Friday.  Be ready to hit the trail at 4:15pm.  Our hike will begin along the flat, long and serene path that used to be a railroad bed.  We will hike to Black Brook where the Bondcliff Trail turns northerly to begin the ascent up the bonds.  Depending on the time of day we may opt to hike up further into the wilderness before setting camp for the evening. On this adventure, flexibility is a must.  We will secure a campsite near a water source for dinner and breakfast.  Black Brook and the Bondcliff trail flirt with one another much of the way up to Bondcliff and there are some sweet camping spots along the ascent.  Evening #1 mileage will be in the 4 to 6 mile range.

Saturday, day #1, we’ll break camp early and be on the trail by 8am.  We’ll fuel up with a hearty breakfast, hydrate and carry our full water bottles.  Because water can be tricky along this circuit, I will advise that you fill your water bottles whenever the opportunity presents itself.  The Bondcliff trail is a sweet meandering ascent which will bring us to Bondcliff, Mt. Bond and we’ll detour to jaunt to West Bond and back.  Shortly after West Bond we will visit the Guyot campsite to replenish water, take a break, snack, etc.    From Guyot we will make our way to South Twin and most likely tag Mt. Guyot along the way.  The general terrain between Bondcliff and South Twin is a series of modest ups and downs popping in and out of tree line.  Stunning to be certain, but don’t underestimate your need for endurance during this section.

The descent from South Twin will be a welcome change of pace.  It is an 800 foot drop characterized by stone stairs which I’ve climbed up in fall and winter.  We’ll reach Galehead hut where we can rehydrate, drop packs, tag Galehead and return to the hut.  From the hut, we’ll ensure full hydration and full water bottles and we’ll carry along the Garfield Ridge Trail and hopefully secure a campsite at Garfield Ridge Camp Site.  Day two mileage will be in the range of 13 to 15 miles depending on where we ultimately camp.  Water sources, while available, can be tricky and that will ultimately drive where we camp on evening #2.

Sunday, day #2, we’ll break camp early and be on the trail by 8:30am.  Yep – we’ll give ourselves an extra half hour, lol.  It will be super important to be fully hydrateded with full water bottles as the next anticipated water source will be Liberty Springs.  The trail from Garfield Ridge Camp Site to the summit of Mt. Lafayette is a brilliant and strenuous stretch.  From the summit of Lafayette it’s all downhill from there.  (Not exactly really but given what we will have achieved, yes it is!!).  We’ll scoot over to Mt. Lincoln then on to Liberty Springs.  At the trail junction for Liberty Springs Trail and Franconia Ridge Trail we’ll drop packs and scoot down to Liberty Springs to rehydrate.  We’ll scoot back up and make our way over to Mt. Flume – our final peak of the adventure – and then begin the final 4.1 mile descent to rejoin the Lincoln Woods Trail.  From the junction its 1.4 miles of flat and easy meandering back to the cars.  Overall mileage on day #2 will be in the range of 13 to 15 miles.

This trip is weather dependent.  A significant amount of time is spent above tree line hiking magnificent ridges – it truly is spectacular.  A lot of effort goes into planning such a trip and I know the disappointment of a cancellation, however, the experience for me is in the views, partly sunny weather and reasonably dry conditions with no threat of thunder.  All that is a tall order for early July.  A forecast that includes a burst of showers will not cancel but a forecast that indicates sustained rainfall and strong likelihood of thunder will.  In all instances, be prepared for adverse weather conditions.  In the event of unforeseen weather conditions there are many exit strategies along the path.  They will not, however, include linking us back to our cars.  A small problem to contend with should that rare moment occur.

For this trip you will need a tent, bivy or hammock; head lamp; stove; utensils; lighter; sleeping bag, all the essentials of a classic backpacking trip.  Bring two sets of hiking clothing, including pants (which are usually convertible to shorts).  You will need a rain coat as a precaution and bring light fleece layers in case the day temperatures unexpectedly turn chilly.  You may also benefit from sun screen, bug spray, ball cap or brim hat – some sun protection.  You will need dinner for Friday evening, Breakfast, lunch and dinner on Saturday, Breakfast and lunch for Sunday.  Ensure a hearty supply of snacks to fuel you in between meals.  I will recommend three liter bottles of water.

For Sunday – Soleil – my puppy – is booked into the kennel through Monday morning.  Bring a towel and a change of clothes.  Rest assured – I will be scouting a swimming hole along the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River for a refreshing dip.  That is my reward post hike.  Late afternoon on Sunday will ensure some privacy as well – me likes to get really clean!!  Depending on the time of day we conclude the hike – we might possibly grab dinner before heading home as well.

I'm not sure about camping fees at the Garfield Camp site - bring a few ten's in the event we are charged to overnight.  We can also opt to hike on for a more primitive experience.

Cheers gents – see you on the trail.